Topic: Cooking Fresh

Seasonal foods prepared fresh by a diverse group of professional chefs and food enthusiasts

Twice Baked Irish Potatoes with Stout Onions and Kale

Cooking Fresh with Ivy Manning—In the Kitchen

First, Ivy Manning visited with Shari Sirkin, of Dancing Roots Farm, and learned more about kale. Now it’s time to take that kale into the kitchen and create something delicious and easy to make, with ingredients that are commonly found in most kitchens! Full Disclosure: I made this dish for my family—it’s wonderful!

“What’s your favorite potato story?” Gene Theil, the spunky potato farmer nicknamed “ Gene the Potato Machine,” asked me one crisp November morning as I chose from his table of russets. I drew a blank. “Everyone has a potato story,” he assured me. It finally dawned on me: colcannon. My grandmother used to make the satisfying mash of kale or cabbage and potatoes for me when I was a kid. She said its origins came from necessity when times were tough in Ireland. Women would add kale, cabbage, or even seaweed to their mashed potatoes to stretch the meager harvest;– the greener the colcannon, the tougher the times. Gene was happy to hear that he was right again, we all have a potato story. My love of simple but comforting colcannon inspired this satisfying variation of double- stuffed potatoes; it’s a sort of Irish soul food, if you will.

Ivy Manning: From The Field To the Kitchen

Fresh Ingredients:

  • 4 large russet potatoes, scrubbed (8 to 10 ounces each)
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided
  • 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced onions (about 1 large)
  • 1 cup Irish-style stout
  • 1 bunch lacinato kale or Russian kale(about 3 ounces)
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
  • 1/2 teaspoon mustard powder
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup grated cheddar cheese

    Instructions:

  1. Preheat the oven to 400 F. Rub the potatoes with 1 teaspoon of the oil and place directly on the oven rack. Bake until they squish easily when gently squeezed, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
  2. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently until they begin to brown, about 15 minutes. Add a splash of the stout and scrape up any browned bits. Continue to cook, occasionally deglazing the pan with the stout until the onions are deep brown and nearly all of the stout is used, about 30 minutes total.
  3. Tear the tough ribs and stems away from the kale and discard or use for stock. Roughly chop the leaves and add half the kale to the onions, tossing with tongs to wilt the leaves. Add the remaining kale, toss, cover, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
  4. With a serrated knife slice off the top quarter of each potato. Use a soup spoon to scoop out the flesh, leaving a 1/4-inch-thick shell on the bottom and sides. Mash the flesh with the buttermilk, butter, and mustard powder. Gently fold in the onion-kale mixture and season with the salt and pepper. Mound the mixture into the potato shells, sprinkle the tops with the cheese, and place on a baking sheet. Bake until the cheese is melted, about 20 minutes, and serve warm as a side dish or a vegetarian main course.

Recipe & Family Story Courtesy of Ivy Manning
Download this recipe (PDF)

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From the Field: Kale

CUpS: Cooking Fresh

Ivy Manning; cookbook author and culinary expert talking to Shari Sirkin about Kale.

In an effort to learn where our food comes from, and to inspire more fresh, seasonal cooking, this two-part video series, with Cookbook author Ivy Manning, goes into the field, and back into the kitchen, for a round-trip exploration of Pacific Northwest kale. In this segment, Manning visits Shari Sirkin of Dancing Roots Farm in Troutdale, Oregon to investigate Kale from a farmer’s perspective in the midst of harvesting it. Next week— Ivy Manning goes into the kitchen to demonstrate how to prepare an incredibly tasty meal, using this fresh kale, and a few other simple ingredients.  Manning also shares the following written thoughts about Kale:

Tuscan black, cavalo nero, lacinato, dinosaur. One of my favorite vegetables goes by many names, and by any name, it tastes sweet. At least in the coldest months of winter. That’s when the deep blue-green, ostrich feather-shaped leaves of this, and all varieties of kale are at their most abundant and flavorful.

Just as everything else in the garden is languishing in the cold, the brassica oleracea family (which includes flowering kale, white, red, and curly kale varieties) thrives in the nippy weather, supplying our kitchens with a fresh, tender green when we’ve had our fill of root vegetables. I first learned of lacinato kale working in Italy, where the leaves where stripped from their tough stems, chopped and shoved by huge handfuls into pots of minestrone. “Cavolo nero, it likes to be cooked with beans. It’s a bean-green,” I was told by the chef I was assisting.

Field of Kale-Dancing Roots Farm

I took the chef’s word and used lacinato kale exclusively in soups, simmering it until it became a silky slip of a green. Until one day, I had a hankering for Southern greens over cornbread. I didn’t have collard greens on hand, but I did have a fresh bunch of lacinato kale, so I cooked as I would collard or mustard greens—sautéed in bacon fat with onions, garlic, and a pinch of chili flakes. Lacinato cooked in a quarter of the time collards usually take, and the deep, rich flavor and almost meaty texture had me smitten. The “bean green” easily slipped its way into my culinary repertoire as a favorite winter vegetable with endless applications. It’s great in soups, yes, but try it sautéed in olive oil or bacon fat and garlic with a pinch of red pepper flakes, blanch it and add it to stuffing, wok-fry it and dress it with sesame oil and soy sauce, marinated it raw in vinaigrette for a winter salad– the possibilities are endless. Before you head into the kitchen to become acquainted with these tall dark and handsome leaves, you’ll want to keep a few things in mind:

  1. Choose small to medium leaves, and avoid bunches of lacinato kale that have yellowed or wilting leaves.
  2. Wash the leaves in a sink full of cool water. If you find any powdery bugs on the underside of the leaves, dissolve a few tablespoons of salt in the water and soak for ten minutes; the bugs will jump ship.
  3. Store all kale varieties in a plastic bag in the coldest part of the refrigerator and use it within a few days—kale will begin to break down and loose its fresh flavor quickly.
  4. Tear the dark leaves away from the tough center rib/stem; the rib/stems do not break down while cooking. Use the rib/stems for stocks or compost.

Stayed tuned for the companion Cooking Fresh video— To the Kitchen: Twice Baked Potatoes with Kale!

Ivy Manning is the author of The Farm to Table Cookbook and The Adaptable Feast. She also writes the “Vegetarian Flavors” column in the Oregonian FoodDay and is a frequent contributor to Cooking Light and Bon Appetite magazine. Visit her website and blog.

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Making Gourmet Mac and Cheese

Jack Campbell In his Portland, Oregon Kitchen

Jack Campbell, aka Chef Jacques, demonstrates how to transform the ordinary Mac and Cheese dish into a savory delicacy. Check out his related recipe from the show: Gourmet Mac and Cheese Recipe.

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Cashew Shortbread Cut-out Cookies

The kids are home from school, boredom levels rise, what to do? Cookies! Caitlin Daniels of Two Tarts Bakery, gives us another idea how to have delicious fun with some of our favorite cookie cutters. She demonstrates using a Christmas tree cut-out on this Cashew Shortbread recipe. Year after year I’ve been making my favorite sugar cookie recipe, but this year I’m going to start a new tradition. What’s your favorite Holiday time cookie?

Check out these recipes from the show: Cashew Shortbread Recipe; Favorite Sugar Cookies Recipe

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Homemade Pie Crust

The baking season is upon us, with Thanksgiving just ahead. In this video, Catherine Schon, of Sassafras Catering, demonstrates how to make a tasty homemade pie crust. Now for some of you this will be old hat, but for many who are rediscovering the baker within, this will be very useful to watch. Actually, even as a seasoned home-baker, you might pick up some tips – I did! Ms. Schon was kind enough to also share her Home Made Pie Crust Recipe.

Catherine Schon,  Sassafras Catering

Catherine Schon, Sassafras Catering

Traditionally folks will make pumpkin pie for their Thanksgiving meal. Or, you might want to consider apple pie or pecan pie – both primary ingredients are in season. Whichever type you decide, try making it yourself. For me that’s part of the fun of making a Thanksgiving meal…find some good music, roll up your sleeves, create, and share!

And before you start making dough, here’s a good tip I learned from the TwoJunes post, Pie, It’s A Way of Life; double or triple the pie dough recipe, divide accordingly, wrap in wax paper, and freeze until needed.

Happy baking, and Happy Thanksgiving!

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Canning Fresh Pears

Marge Braker Canning PearsVarious fruits and vegetable have been ripening these past few weeks. Have you had a chance to put any up? A favorite around our household is pears, especially the bartlett variety. Like most other fruit, once ripened, if you can’t eat it all, consider canning or preserving in some fashion. Marge Braker, a retired home economics teacher from Oregon State University Extension Service, shows how easy it is to can pears in this video demonstration. She also includes all the necessary steps in her recipe, canning pears, raw pack.

I think canning pears makes for a nice presentation and ease of use for future recipes such as this pear bread recipe. Here are two additional sites to find out more about the canning process: Canning Across America and Food In Jars.

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